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The principal of four main groups of islands which form an archipelago south of the Bahamas is the island of Cuba, an island of flat, rolling plains with a mountainous area at its southeastern end and the crumbling, atmospheric capital city of Havana near its northern tip.

The traveller no longer needs to be intrepid to travel to Cuba, since its borders have been open long enough now to mean that visitors are catered for well if not extravagantly, and tourism has become one of the largest sources of income here. After 1959, Cuban tourism was mostly for Cubans only, and the facilities were not renewed until the 1990s, when Cuba lost financial backing from the defunct Soviet Union and opened its doors to foreign tourism. Now, many Europeans, Canadians, and even U.S. visitors come to the island. In the typical tourist regions like Varadero and Holguin, a lot of modern 3-star to 5-star hotels are available, while in less popular tourist regions, visitors are still able to rent rooms in many Cuban homes, casas particulares.

One of the largest and most vibrant cities in the Caribbean, Havana (La Habana) boasts an old town which features on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Much of the money made from tourism is currently being pumped back into restorative works in the city and its buildings. The surrounding 19th-century district of densely packed, crumbling houses and narrow streets has its own appeal, as does the high-rise city center (Vedado), developed during the 1940s and 1950s when US influence was strongest. The sea wall, known as the Malecón, extends for 8km and is a popular meeting point for locals, especially after dusk. Havana’s best beaches, the Playas del Este, are about 20km from the center.

Pinar del Río is arguably Cuba’s most beautiful province. The caves here, notably the Cueva del Indio, are well worth a visit, with stalactites and stalagmites and underground rivers. The town of Pinar del Río should be explored in its own right, where you can find several cigar factories that are open to the public. The tobacco plantations at Vuelta Abajo, a short distance southwest of Pinar del Río can also be visited during the growing season from December to April.

Cienfuegos is a prosperous modern city with a 19th-century core which was built with the help of French settlers from Louisiana, which explains why many of the town’s finest buildings are reminiscent of New Orleans. The main sights around Parque José Martí include the cathedral and the late 19th-century Teatro Tomás Terry, the harbour, the Castillo de Jagua and the Palacio de Valle. Built in an appealing mixture of architectural styles, it is now a restaurant with a roof-top terrace that affords splendid views of the bay and surrounding countryside. Trinidad retains the charm of an old colonial town, despite the influx of tourists. Founded in the year 1514, it was one of Cuba’s seven original towns, and the presence of many beautiful buildings dating from the 17th to 19th centuries refurbished in the colonial style.

Camagüey’s attractions include a number of churches and museums and a thriving peso market. Camagüey lies in the center of a fertile plain, exploited for sugar. The unspoilt Camagüey archipelago is also known as Jardines del Rey. Within the natural park are some 20km of landscaped white-sand beaches, the best known of which are Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, the latter a favorite haunt of Ernest Hemmingway who came to fish here. Santiago de Cuba was the island’s first capital. It owed this distinction to a superb deepwater harbor, the majestic Sierra Maestra Mountains forming a dramatic backdrop. Despite losing its primacy early in the day, Santiago was never overshadowed by Havana thanks to the French plantation owners and their slaves who arrived in the 18th century, turning the region over to coffee and sugar production. Santiago consequently acquired a cosmopolitan flavor that accounts for its cultural importance, especially in music. In July, the town hosts one of the most spectacular carnivals in the country. Highlights of Santiago’s old quarter (around the square, Parque Céspedes) are the cathedral, the Casa de Diego Velázquez, one of Cuba’s oldest colonial mansions, and the Museo Emilio Bacardí, which contains the rum magnate’s collection of antiques and fine art.