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Guadeloupe is really a collection of islands: two large ones that make up ‘the butterfly’ and several smaller ones that are well worth exploring if you have the time. In 1763 it was handed over finally to the French by the British after over a century of wrangling, in return for agreeing to abandon their territorial claims in Canada. It remains a lively centre of Creole culture, and has an interesting mix of modern cities, rural hamlets, rainforests and tranquil beaches. It is an overseas department of France and comprises the islands of Basse-Terre and Grand-Terre separated by a narrow sea channel called Salt River, along with La Désirade, Les Saintes and Marie-Galante.

Basse-Terre is a mountainous volcanic island, its highest peak being La Soufrière, an active volcano. It is covered by a magnificent tropical forest which has been designated a National Park since 1989 and has many hiking trails that will lead you to its waterfalls, cascades, basins and banana plantations. The island has a number of interesting towns such as Deshaies in the north west, a quaint little fishing village that was once a haven for pirates, with several good restaurants and a wonderful botanical garden featuring gorgeous trees garlanded with orchids. The longest and best beach in all of Guadeloupe is here, at Grande Anse, and it is a comfortable base for excursions along the coast to attractions like the Musée du Rhum, the Maison de Cacao and the Musée du Café. For divers this is almost a site of pilgrimage since the underwater reserve here, which is of world renown, was declared by Jacques Cousteau to be one of the world’s top diving destinations and named Réserve Cousteau after him. Basse-Terre provides the visitor with traces of all of the diverse cultures that make up Guadeloupe: here, you can visit a Catholic church, a Hindu temple, archaeological remains of the original Arawak inhabitants as well as a 17th century military fort.

Grande-Terre forms the other wing of the butterfly and is a limestone plateau perfectly suited to the growing of sugar cane, which covers most of the island. The southern coast is where most of Guadeloupe’s beachfront tourism has traditionally been centred. Lots of restaurants and hotels are on offer to give you the best choice of Creole cuisine and the most exciting nightlife on the island. This could be one of the best places to experience the famous local dance, the ‘biguine’, where colourful and ornate Creole costumes are still worn. Biguine is a form of clarinet and trombone music with nasal vocals and improvised instrumental solos that are sure to get your toes tapping, especially if you are helped into the swing by an equally local rum punch cocktail, for which Guadeloupe is renowned. Pointe-à-Pitre is the economic capital with historic monuments, museums, and markets. Musée St-John Perse occupies an attractive 19th-century colonial building with ornate wrought-iron balconies. The museum is dedicated to the renowned poet and Nobel laureate Alexis Léger (1887-1975), better known as St John Perse, who grew up just down the street at No 54. The house offers both a glimpse of a period Creole home and displays on Perse's life and work. Saint-François, another lively tourist destination, offers activities centred around its casino, market, marina and international golf course. Here, you can board the ferry for La Désirade, a steep-sided, flat-topped island that was traditionally the first bit of New World land sighted by incoming Spanish square-riggers in the age of exploration, a sign that they had safely crossed the Ocean Sea. In complete contrast, it seems that nothing can disturb the tranquil atmosphere which reigns on the island, nor affect the authentic character and kind welcome of its inhabitants, mainly descendants of people from Brittany, Normandy and Poitou. Much of the accommodation available to visitors here is in the form of traditional French gîtes.

The islands of ‘Les Saintes’ contain relics of the turbulent naval battles between the English and French alongside charming villages, quiet roads and restaurants with the freshest seafood. Terre-de-Haut is renowned for its gorgeous bay with clear turquoise waters and its spectacular sugarloaf mountain. The remaining island of Marie-Galante is famed for its sugar cane and rum production, which has been growing in reputation since the 18th century as the best in the world. Equally legendary are its beaches of white sand and the warmth of its inhabitants.